Other than the fact that my feet are covered in a layer of sticky black grime after walking in the streets for a few minutes, I would say that Mexico City has surprised me so far with its pleasantries. People smile rather than whistle at you when you pass. Despite the overwhelming number of cars, you can cross the street without running. The 75 degree weather with sunny skies (no rain yet!) if perfect. And perhaps the ultimate highlight for me so far, is that instead of hearing that frightening white noise that you hear in the DC metro, their subway stations have music blasting from speakers carefully placed along the walls, out of the reach of vandals (the colorful, lively Mexican culture brought into universally the darkest, dirtiest, and often scariest city infrastructure.)

Much of my luck of finding the more peaceful side of D.F., a city with a population of 18 million, probably has something to do with the barrio where I have landed. Condesa, which has historically attracted writers and artists, lies between the downtown area and the wealthier neighborhoods of Polanco and La Colonia San Miguel Chapultepec (hill of grasshoppers in the Aztec language) which flank Mexico City´s version of central park. The university where I am taking Spanish classes is at the edge of this funky part of town, where there are more cafes, fusion restaurants, and high-end retail clothing stores than in San Francisco or Greenwich Village. Condesa is also where the international journalists hang out – which I just found out from an old friend of the family who after not seeing for more than 10 years, I randomly spotted on my plane from DC to D.F. It turns out that Eliza – who is my age exactly – is now a freelance journalist who has been living in Mexico City for the past two years. Again, another boon for me as I start my journey down here.

But perhaps the greatest fortune of all since I arrived has been the company and hospitality of my friend Teresa´s sister, Vivi, and her husband and daughter and FIVE rambunctious perros (one tranquil yellow lab who seems a little out of place among the other four hyperactive boxers.) I already have scratches all over my legs from the beasts, but I cannot help but love their attention and company, and you cannot beat a comfy free place to stay as you get settled in such a strange land. Last night, Vivi and her husband, Jorge, and I gathered around the dining room table for some "tequila terapia," during which time we proceeded to sip at least 5 shots of tequila each while discussing the current failings of both our countries political leaders and other more refreshing themes like ones idea of perfection (like a dog sprawled out, sleeping peacefully while languishing in a pool of sunshine.) I was rewarded with a hangover today, but nothing compared to the hangovers that I get from the pinche High Life!

Anyway, the truth is that I have little to share so far…I am still just learning how to open myself up and take in this enormous city and its diverse people. For now, the peacefulness that I have found may not make for interesting, exciting, or funny stories, but it is the exact state of being that I was looking for, from which I can set sail.